The Hall Family Travels Blog

While we were camped in Silver Bay exploring Minnesota’s North Shore (you can read about that here if you missed it) almost everyone we talked to told us we had to visit the little town of Grand Marais. Since we also wanted to explore more of the surrounding area, we decided to make it more than just a day trip. We packed up our campsite in Silver Bay and moved farther north into the Superior National Forest, where we spent five nights camping at Two Island Lake Campground.

Two Island Lake Campground

I have to say, we either have impeccable timing or we’re just incredibly lucky because we always seem to end up with amazing campsites.

Two Island Lake Campground is a primitive campground with pit toilets, water spigots, dumpsters, and self-pay registration for just $22 per night. Every site includes a picnic table and fire ring, and we were fortunate enough to snag Site #23. It was level, spacious, and sat right along the edge of the lake, with little shaded paths winding through the surrounding forest. It was peaceful, beautiful, and quickly felt like home for the next few days.

As soon as camp was set up, we did what we always do at a new campground—we wandered around to explore. We walked down to the boat launch and stood at the edge of the lake, testing the water temperature with our feet. While we were there, a bald eagle suddenly flew overhead, swooped down across the lake, and emerged moments later with a fish clutched in its talons. What an incredible sight to witness right in front of us! If that’s not a good way to start a trip, I don’t know what is.

Exploring Grand Marais

The following day was dedicated to exploring Grand Marais. We strolled through the charming downtown, browsing the many unique little shops and boutiques. Our original plan was to walk out to Artist Point and spend some time along the shores of Lake Superior, but we were completely unprepared for the weather.

Although it was nearly 80 degrees back at our campground, the cold wind blowing off Lake Superior made the town feel dramatically cooler. None of us had packed jackets, and we weren’t nearly as tough as the locals who seemed perfectly comfortable in the chilly breeze. Instead of lingering outside, we found ourselves happily ducking into one cozy shop after another, browsing everything from locally made artwork to fun souvenirs and quirky little treasures.

By lunchtime, the kids were getting hungry, so we stopped at My Sister’s Place for some pizza before heading back to camp.

Once we got back, Dustin was eager to do some fishing. The lake at our campground wasn’t producing much, so we drove to another nearby lake to try our luck there. A few fish were caught, but nothing worth bringing home. Even so, it was relaxing to sit along the shore with our feet in the water while watching schools of tiny fish dart around the bait.

After a relaxing day in town, we were ready to spend the next few days exploring more of the area. Our plans included Cascade River State Park, the Gunflint Trail Scenic Drive, Judge C.R. Magney State Park, and Grand Portage.

Cascade River State Park

Our first stop was Cascade River State Park, where we hiked to Pine Mountain Lookout overlooking the Lutsen Forest. The hike ended up being about five miles round trip. Parts of the trail felt a little forgotten, with narrow single-track paths nearly swallowed by overgrown brush. More than once we found ourselves pushing branches overhead just to squeeze through.

Honestly, those are the kinds of trails we enjoy most. There’s something about a rugged, less-traveled path that makes the adventure feel a little more authentic.

We kept our eyes peeled for moose or even a black bear, but the only wildlife that decided to join us were songbirds and a few curious squirrels. The songbirds and sounds of nature made for a peaceful hike though so we didn’t complain.

The Gunflint Trail and Magnetic Rock

One attraction that seemed to come up in almost every conversation was the Gunflint Trail. After hearing about it so many times, we finally looked it up—only to discover it isn’t actually a hiking trail at all, but a 57-mile scenic byway winding through the Superior National Forest that’s famous for wildlife viewing.

“This is it,” we thought. “Surely this is where we’ll finally see a moose.”

Our optimism started high.

We pulled over at a designated Moose Viewing Area that led to a tiny dock overlooking a swamp. The mosquitoes were plentiful. The moose were not.

Next, we stopped at another overlook that, oddly enough, required hiking downhill. (I’m still not sure what kind of overlook goes down.) After making our way to the bottom, we discovered…not much of anything. Just more bugs.

Along the drive we also stopped at several of the lodges scattered throughout the forest. They were interesting to see, but nothing tempted us to stay long.

By the time we reached the end of the road, we were tired, a little frustrated, and wondering why we’d spent so much time—and fuel—driving in search of wildlife that apparently had other plans.

I wish I could tell you things improved on the drive back.

They didn’t.

Not a moose. Not a bear. Not even a deer. Just bugs.

Sometimes nature puts on an unforgettable show…and sometimes it leaves you driving nearly 120 miles wondering if every other visitor had simply made up the wildlife stories.

While driving the Gunflint Trail, we decided we might as well salvage the day by stopping at the Magnetic Rock Trail. Another hiker we met at Cascade River State Park had recommended it, and after spending so much time in the truck, we were happy for an excuse to stretch our legs.

The hike itself ended up being one of the more unique ones we’d done. Instead of winding through forest the entire way, much of the trail crossed broad stretches of exposed rock, giving it a completely different feel from the other hikes we’d experienced along the North Shore.

At the end of the trail stands the famous Magnetic Rock—a massive 40-foot-tall rock formation rising straight out of the forest floor. According to the signs, it’s so magnetic that a compass needle will spin in circles when held nearby.

Unfortunately, we came completely unprepared. No compass. No magnet. No way to test the legend for ourselves.

So we simply admired the rock, took a few photos, and trusted everyone else’s word that it really was magnetic.

Overall, this day just wasn’t our favorite. But that’s part of traveling—not every stop becomes a highlight, and sometimes the places you’re most excited about simply don’t live up to expectations.

Fourth of July in Grand Marais

Thankfully, the day ended on a much brighter note. It just so happened to be the Fourth of July.

That evening we drove back into Grand Marais and, at 10:00 p.m., watched fireworks explode over Lake Superior. It was the boys’ very first fireworks show, and I can’t imagine a more beautiful place to experience it. Watching the colorful reflections dance across the water made for the perfect ending to an otherwise somewhat disappointing day.

Judge C.R. Magney State Park

For our final day in the Grand Marais area, we decided to head even farther north—all the way to the very top of Minnesota.

Our first stop was Judge C.R. Magney State Park, home to what became our favorite hike of the entire trip: Devil’s Kettle.

This was easily the coolest waterfall we saw on the North Shore (although the boys quickly renamed it “The Devil’s Toilet”).

What makes Devil’s Kettle so fascinating is that the river splits into two waterfalls. One side continues downstream as expected, while the other plunges into a giant hole in the rock and seems to disappear. For years, no one knew exactly where the water went, making it one of Minnesota’s greatest natural mysteries.

After admiring the falls, we climbed around on the rocks above the river, cooled our feet in the water, and enjoyed a few snacks while taking in the scenery. It was one of those peaceful moments that remind you why you love traveling.

Grand Portage

From there, we continued north to Grand Portage, where we stood just a short distance from the Canadian border—the closest the boys had ever been to leaving the country.

We took the easy hike to High Falls, Minnesota’s tallest waterfall. While on this hike, we dropped down to the river and again, our impeccable timing, we happened to get there right as a family of ducks were crossing the river. We stood there a while and watched as the little ducklings sped their way across the gentle rapids after their mama before continuing on our hike.

Aside from the state park, a casino, and a couple of souvenir shops, there wasn’t a whole lot else to explore in Grand Portage. We could have spent more time hiking, but after staying up late for the fireworks the night before, we were all running low on energy and decided to head back to camp.

Final Thoughts

Looking back, Grand Marais was every bit as charming as everyone had told us it would be. The surrounding North Shore was just as breathtaking as the Silver Bay area, and we enjoyed discovering a whole new section of Minnesota’s coastline.

If we had to compare the two areas, we’d probably say there were more attractions packed around Silver Bay, but we’re still glad we made the trip north. Between the quiet campground, the hikes, the beautiful views, and celebrating the Fourth of July on the shores of Lake Superior, Grand Marais gave us memories we won’t forget.

If we had one complaint about our entire Minnesota adventure, it would have to be the mosquitoes.

They were relentless.

We would have loved to spend more evenings relaxing around the campfire or eating dinner outside, but every time we stepped out, we were immediately swarmed. The bugs definitely won that battle.

Even so, Minnesota’s North Shore completely won us over. From waterfalls and rocky shorelines to peaceful campgrounds and unforgettable views of Lake Superior, it was a trip we’ll always remember—and one we hope to return to someday.