Our Family Journal: Exploring Minnesota’s North Shore: Waterfalls, Hiking & Family Adventures

Before this trip, Minnesota wasn’t really on our radar as an amazing vacation destination. The family in the state is what originally brought us there, but not what kept us there. After spending nearly a month exploring different parts of the state, we can honestly say it’s one of the most beautiful places we’ve visited. While we certainly didn’t see everything Minnesota has to offer, every stop surprised us in the best way.

We began our trip just north of Minneapolis in the small town of Monticello before heading a couple of hours farther north to Aitkin, where our campsite sat along the Mississippi River. From there, we drove up to Silver Bay and spent two unforgettable weeks exploring Minnesota’s North Shore of Lake Superior—a stretch of rugged coastline filled with waterfalls, towering cliffs, dense forests, and some of the best hiking we’ve experienced.

During our stay, we visited Tettegouche State Park, George Crosby Manitou State Park, Gooseberry Falls State Park, Beaver Bay, Black Beach, Iona’s Beach Scientific and Natural Area, the Baptism River, Lax Lake, Palisade Head, and Duluth. Every stop had something unique to offer, and together they made for one of our favorite destinations of the entire trip.

Our Home Base: Eckbeck Campground

Growing up in California, we were used to seeing the Pacific Ocean. So when we arrived in Duluth and caught our first glimpse of Lake Superior, I honestly could have sworn we were looking at the ocean. It took a while for my brain to accept that this massive body of water was actually a freshwater lake.

We arrived in mid-June—arguably one of the best times of year to visit—and settled into Eckbeck Campground in Finland State Forest, just outside Silver Bay. At only $17 per night, you couldn’t beat it and it became one of our favorite campgrounds.

The campground sat alongside the Baptism River, surrounded by towering pines, lush green forest, and beautiful wildflowers. It offered fresh spring water, dumpsters, and pit toilets—everything we needed to comfortably stay for eight days.

One thing we noticed almost immediately was how peaceful the campground was. Even after the weekend crowd arrived, nobody blasted music, stayed up late making noise, or treated the campground like a party destination. Everyone seemed to genuinely appreciate the outdoors and respected the natural setting. After staying in our share of crowded RV parks, it was a refreshing change and exactly the kind of camping experience we enjoy.

Exploring the Baptism River

On our first day, the boys couldn’t wait to explore the Baptism River running alongside camp. Within minutes, they had both slipped on the smooth rocks and landed in the water—shoes and all.

Lesson learned: every kid needs a backup pair of shoes (wish we had learned this BEFORE we were an hour away from the closest shoe store!)

That little mishap ultimately led to a shopping trip to Duluth the next day, but before that, we spent hours rock hopping, wading through the river, and catching tiny crawdads, which seemed to be everywhere.

Another day we followed the river farther downstream and discovered a deep swimming hole surrounded by towering rock walls. We carefully climbed over the rocks, crossed sections of the river, and eventually found ourselves relaxing on a large flat slab in the middle of the water.

As if the scenery wasn’t already beautiful enough, we spotted wild strawberries growing from cracks in the rocks. They made the perfect little trail snack before heading back to camp.

Day Trip to Duluth

Our unexpected shoe emergency sent us to Duluth, the closest shoe store we could find but still an hour drive away.

Beaver Bay

On the drive, we crossed a bridge in Beaver Bay and noticed a series of beautiful waterfalls tumbling over massive rocks. We immediately pulled into a nearby parking area that provided trail access down to the Beaver River.

This stop wasn’t on our itinerary, but it ended up being one of our favorite surprises of the trip!

We spent nearly an hour climbing rocks and making our way upstream. Every time we rounded another bend, there seemed to be another waterfall waiting for us. The boys eventually named it “Ever Falls” because the waterfalls just kept going.

It was one of those unexpected discoveries that often become the best memories.

Duluth

Once we arrived in Duluth, we went to Miller Hill Mall to replace the boys’ soaked shoes. This was our second time in Duluth, having stopped here for the Bass Pro Shop a couple days earlier on the way to the campground.

At Bass Pro, the highlight for the boys wasn’t the camping gear—it was the giant aquarium inside the store. They probably could have stood there watching the fish all afternoon.

We also picked up bear spray, figuring it was a smart investment since we’d be spending the next couple of weeks hiking through bear country.

Although Duluth looked like a fun city with plenty to explore, we decided to save it for another visit since we still had more adventures planned for the day and we were already midway through the afternoon.

We did however make time for a pit stop at Betty’s Pies, recommended by a friend for their amazing pies! A short break and sugary refuel had us ready to continue down the road for a hike!

Gooseberry Falls State Park

Back on the road towards camp, we made one final stop at Gooseberry Falls State Park.

By the time we arrived it was already around 4:00 p.m., so we only had time for one hike. We made our way to Upper Falls before continuing down to Middle and Lower Falls, following the river almost the entire way.

The waterfalls were beautiful, but our favorite moment wasn’t actually one of the falls.

As we walked along the trail, we spotted a beaver quietly swimming back and forth in the river. It seemed completely unbothered by our presence as it lazily paddled through the water before climbing onto shore to munch on some vegetation. We stood there watching for several minutes before continuing our hike.

By the time we reached Lower Falls, it was nearly 6:00 p.m. We could tell there was much more of the park left to explore, but hungry stomachs won out, and we headed back to camp already talking about coming back another day.

Exploring the North Shore

Lax Lake

Before deciding on Eckbeck Campground, our original plan had been to find a free dispersed campsite somewhere near Lax Lake. Since we were already in the area, we decided to drive out and scout it for ourselves.

The drive was beautiful, and the area around Lax Lake was every bit as scenic as we’d hoped. However, after exploring several roads, we couldn’t find any that actually led to dispersed camping. Looking back, I’m glad we chose the campground instead—it ended up being the perfect home base for our adventures.

Since we’d already made the drive, we figured we might as well do a little fishing. I ended up catching two tiny fish, each only about four inches long. They certainly weren’t dinner, but it was still a fun excuse to spend some time by the water before continuing our exploration of the North Shore.

Iona’s Beach Scientific and Natural Area

Wanting to experience the shoreline of Lake Superior, we made our way to Iona’s Beach.

I’ll admit, I was expecting a typical sandy beach. Instead, we found something completely different.

The shoreline was covered with smooth cobblestones—large tan rocks farther from the water that gradually became smaller and deep red as they neared the lake. It was unlike any beach we’d ever visited.

As gentle waves rolled onto shore, thousands of the small stones clattered together, creating one of the most peaceful sounds we’ve ever heard. Between the breeze, the crystal-clear blue water, and the rhythmic sound of the rocks, it was an incredibly relaxing place to simply sit and take it all in.

The water looked so inviting that we wanted to jump in, but one quick touch told us otherwise. Lake Superior was unbelievably cold! It suddenly made perfect sense why everyone else was strolling along the shoreline instead of swimming.

Instead, we spent some time skipping rocks before heading to our next stop.

Black Beach

Black Beach couldn’t have been more different from Iona’s Beach.

Rather than sand or large cobblestones, the shoreline was covered with tiny black pebbles. On a warm sunny afternoon, those dark stones soaked up every bit of heat, making the barefoot walk to the water quite the challenge. It was one of those warm beach walks I’m sure we’re all familiar with: the type that starts as a slow meander and then quickly turns to a quick footed dance to the water with a “Hot! Hot! Hot!” and an imagined sizzle sound as your burning feet hit the cool water.

Once we got used to it, though, it was surprisingly comfortable. With the cool breeze coming off Lake Superior and the warmth radiating from the rocks beneath us, it became one of the most relaxing afternoons of our trip.

The boys entertained themselves by digging in the pebbles and eventually managed to bury Dustin completely. Not long afterward, Colten volunteered to be buried too.

When it was time to leave, Dustin climbed out from beneath the hot stones and decided the best way to clean off was by jumping into Lake Superior.

Watching him go from baking under hot black pebbles to plunging into the painfully cold water had all of us laughing. It was quite the shock to his system—and a memory we’ll keep for a while!

Our Favorite Hikes

George Crosby Manitou State Park

George Crosby Manitou State Park seems to fly under the radar compared to some of the more popular North Shore parks. Tucked inland down a quiet dirt road, there wasn’t a bustling visitor center or crowded parking lot—just a simple self-pay parking area and miles of beautiful forest.

Since it was a Sunday, we were hoping to avoid the crowds, and this park turned out to be exactly what we were looking for.

We hiked about four miles, looping together the Yellow Birch, Manitou River, and Misquah Trails. The trail wound through dense green forest, crossing wooden boardwalks and climbing staircases while weaving over exposed roots and rocky terrain. Parts of the trail felt delightfully wild, with narrow overgrown sections that made it feel like a true backcountry adventure.

The hike was definitely moderate, with plenty of climbs and descents, but our reward was a beautiful overlook along the Misquah Trail where we stopped for a snack and enjoyed the sweeping view from the rocky cliffs.

The boys were tired by the end, but they pushed through every mile and made us proud.

Tettegouche State Park

Because Tettegouche State Park was only a few minutes from our campground, we found ourselves visiting more than once.

One day we tried our luck fishing near the mouth of the Baptism River. We didn’t catch anything, but we still enjoyed exploring the rocky shoreline.

Our biggest adventure in the park was hiking to High Falls and Two Step Falls.

The roughly 4.5-mile round-trip hike kept us constantly climbing or descending. Stairs, hills, roots, and rocky sections seemed to follow one another without much flat ground in between. After a heavy rainstorm the previous day, the trail was also wonderfully muddy, puddly, and slippery—which, surprisingly, made it even more fun.

Wooden planks crossed many of the wettest sections of trail. Dustin discovered the first “sinking board” the hard way. Unfortunately for him, he was leading the hike, so there was no one ahead to warn him. The rest of us benefited from his sacrifice while he finished the hike with one soggy shoe.

Thanks to all the recent rain, the waterfalls were absolutely roaring. The sound of rushing water echoed throughout the forest, creating a constant backdrop that felt like white noise.

Reaching the base of the falls required tackling several long staircases, some with signs warning that there were over 200 steps. By the time we finished climbing back out, our knees definitely felt it—but every step was worth it.

Before heading back to camp, we stopped at Tettegouche’s natural play area just beyond the Baptism River Campground. Instead of traditional playground equipment, the area featured musical instruments made from natural materials, balancing logs, stick-building stations, rock-and-stick tic-tac-toe, and small play huts. It was such a creative space and quickly became another highlight for the boys.

Palisade Head

If you’re looking for spectacular views, Palisade Head absolutely delivers.

If you’re afraid of heights… well, it delivers that too.

We weren’t quite sure what to expect before arriving, but given that it was just another couple minutes up the road, we decided it was worth the try.

As we drove up, fog began rolling over the cliffs, and we worried it might block the view. Instead, it made the experience even more incredible.

Standing on the edge of the massive cliff felt like standing above the clouds. Through gaps in the fog, we could see waves crashing many feet below while the distant shoreline faded into the mist across Lake Superior.

It was breathtaking. It was also terrifying.

There are no railings protecting much of the overlook, and peering over the edge was enough to make my stomach turn. Despite my fear of heights, I’m so glad we stopped. It was easily one of the most unforgettable viewpoints of our entire trip.

Looking Back

Our two weeks along Minnesota’s North Shore completely exceeded our expectations.

Whether we were hiking through dense forests, chasing waterfalls, relaxing on unique beaches, or simply driving from one destination to the next, every corner of the region seemed unbelievably lush, peaceful, and beautiful.

Even the weather became part of the experience. One afternoon, heavy rain and rolling thunderstorms kept us inside the trailer. Instead of feeling disappointed, we turned off the lights and sat quietly listening to the rain drumming on the roof while flashes of lightning illuminated the trees outside. It was one of those simple moments that somehow becomes a favorite memory.

On one of the hottest afternoons, we built a small rock dam in the Baptism River below our campsite to create a shallow wading pool. It was the perfect way to stay cool in the afternoon heat and we all had fun with it.

Looking back, it wasn’t just the waterfalls, overlooks, or beaches that made this place so special. It was the little moments—finding wild strawberries growing from the rocks, watching a beaver swim through Gooseberry Falls, discovering hidden waterfalls the boys named “Ever Falls,” listening to the cobblestones clatter at Iona’s Beach, and laughing as Dustin plunged from sun-baked black pebbles into the icy waters of Lake Superior.

Minnesota’s North Shore gave our family countless memories we’ll treasure for years to come, and it’s a place we’d return to in a heartbeat.

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  1. […] we were camped in Silver Bay exploring Minnesota’s North Shore (you can read about that here if you missed it) almost everyone we talked to told us we had to visit the little town of Grand […]

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